Oven Process Soap Making

This is NOT ITMHP (in the mold hot process) but I think it's better! You don't have to worry about molds warping or melting in the oven (depending on the kind you use) and you can still get the same, great results.

You will need:

  • NO ALUMINUM should be used during this process - the lye solution will eat right through it!
  • stainless steel pot (for melting your oils and cooking the soap)
  • pyrex or heat-safe bowl (an un-used coffee pot works well)
  • bowl to measure lye
  • scale (digital is best, although mine is not)
  • stick blender or wire whisk
  • stainless steel large spoon (for stirring lye solution and soap)
  • a recipe - if you don't have one already, you may choose one of the Soap Recipes from our database, or make your own with the oils you have on hand using our lye calculator. Be sure to double check all recipes for accuracy so you don't get a flopped or lye heavy batch.

Prep Directions:

  • Line the molds you plan on using - usually plastic trash bags work well. I use the plastic grocery bags I get from the supermarket - just make sure the inked side is not facing the soap, or you will get the "silly putty" effect (imprint on the soap). If you are using PVC pipe, grease the inside with a light oil so when you are done it slides right out. Also put duct tape over the bottom end so the soap doesn't leak out.
  • Have your fragrance (essential or fragrance oil) ready, along with any herbs/botanicals you will be adding to the soap. These need to be near the stove, or place you let your soap cool - because once it gets out of the oven, you are moving quickly.

Instructions:

  1. Measure your water in the pyrex or heat-safe bowl. Measure your lye in a separate container. While stirring the water, SLOWLY add the lye a little at a time until it is all dissolved.
    Why add the lye slowly to water that is being stirred? If you don't do it this way, the lye WILL stick to the bottom of the container, and it's really hard to get it off the bottom. You can't go to the next step until all of the lye is dissolved, so if you do get some on the bottom, try lightly tapping the bottom of the container where the lye is to break it up without making a splash.
  2. Measure the oils from your recipe (and waxes, if any) using a scale (always measure using weight and not volume) and put them into the stainless steel pot. Melt the oils in the pot on your stovetop using low heat, stirring frequently to make sure everything melts and doesn't burn. Once the oils are melted, remove from heat.
  3. Preheat your oven to just under 200° - I normally set mine around 180° to make sure the oven doesn't go higher than 200° inside.
  4. You now have everything you need to make soap - now it's just a matter of mixing it together and letting saponification happen! Slowly add the lye solution (in the pyrex bowl) to the melted oils (which should still be warm, about the same temperature as the lye solution) while stirring what's in the stainless steel pot.
  5. STIR STIR STIR with your stick blender or wire whisk for up to 15 minutes, or until the mixture reaches a light trace. If after 15 minutes you haven't reached trace - let the mixture sit for about 10 minutes, and stir again for another 15. Repeat until light trace occurs. Note: if using a stick blender - use it in short bursts (like 20 seconds on, 20 seconds off - or you'll burn out the motor in it).
    What is trace? Trace is when you are mixing your soap, and there is a trail left behind. When you are stirring your melted oils, there is no trail left behind for a few seconds. However, as the mixture cools a bit (since air is being introduced to the mixture) and the molecules are changing into soap and glycerin - the mix will get thicker, which will make a trail while stirring. If you drop a bit of the mixture on top of the soap - it should take a few seconds to blend back in with the rest.
  6. Once your soap has reached a light trace, it's time to put the pot in the oven! No need to cover it. Leave the soap in the oven for about an hour, stirring every 15 minutes to make sure it all cooks evenly.
  7. After an hour in the oven, your soap should be in "gel" stage. This is generally pretty easy to stir, and the soap may even look a little translucent in the pot. There will be no separation at this point, as you may have seen when stirring the mixture before it was put in the oven. If you haven't reached this stage, feel free to continue cooking until it reaches the gel stage - keeping up with the stirring.
  8. Once your soap has reached the gel stage, it's ready to be taken out of the oven! Make sure you put the pot on pot holders so your don't burn your countertops! You may let your soap cool a few minutes (5-10), which will allow you to use less fragrance than cold process or in the mold hot process soapmaking.
  9. Once your soap has cooled a bit, add the fragrance oil/essential oil, herbs/botanicals, and colorants you would like to add to your soap. You can even add a bit of goat's milk now if you like. Stir quickly, and make sure it's mixed well.
    Note: Watch your flash points with fragrance oils - if you are using one that is less than 200°, you NEED to let your soap cool as to not start a fire!
  10. Pour the finished soap into your prepared molds, and cover - let sit over night (for about 24 hours), then remove the soap from the mold and cut. Your soap is ready to use, but it's better the longer you let it sit and harden - lasts longer, too!

Cleanup Instructions:

  • Stainless steel pot your soap was in - the remaining soap along the sides, bottom and edges of your pot can be scraped up with your hands and molded into little soap balls if you like. The rest can be washed out in the sink, since you are washing it with the soap you just made!
  • Other bowls and utensils - these should be put in the sink when you are done using them so no one gets their hands on them and hurts themselves! Fill the sink with water and soap - and wash with rubber gloves. I give them a good rinse, then throw them in the dishwasher.

Please Note: It is assumed that you are taking the proper soapmaking safety measures. Cover your skin where at all possible - so if the caustic lye solution splashes on you, it doesn't burn your skin. Use safety goggles to protect your eyes, or a shield to protect your face. Keep vinegar on hand to neutralize a burn if lye does happen to get on your skin - putting water on it will only make it worse!

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